Thursday, July 29, 2010

Back in Boston






















Pictures (in no particular order):
Statue of Paul Bunyan in Bangor; Me in front of the Portland Head Light; the beach scene at Old Orchard Beach; a DRIVE-IN that I passed on my way to lake Sebago; Ken Davis' house on Frye Island; the bluest sky we were looking at from Ken's front porch on Tuesday afternoon.

July 20, 2010 Fireside Inns and Suites, Bangor 60/893 3:45pm

I got e-mails from both Liz Greason and Ken Davis yesterday. Setting up my visits. It’ll be great to see both of them.

Last night I had a small bowl of chili (risky) and then the chicken parmesan with spaghetti for dinner. Pretty good stuff. The Bear’s Den is an interesting place. After that, it was pretty much off to bed to watch some baseball, read a bit of the John Sanford book, eat a Snickers (carried around in the backpack for two days), and go to sleep.

Slept OK. I guess at some point last night, I rolled over and hit the bedside lamp and knocked the lampshade off. I put it back as best I could this morning. A bit slow moving this morning. I couldn’t really decide whether to try to get a ride to Bangor or to risk it and just go as far as I could until something happened (maybe) to the tire with the bump in it. I had heard the owner of the place say on the phone that he was heading into Bangor today. When I asked him about it, he told me that he wouldn’t be going until about 2 in the afternoon. He told me if I was still around that I was welcome to a ride. I also tried to call the number that the waitress had given me last night for the local taxi. No luck.

Eventually, around 8:30 I decided to just go and see how far I could get on the tire. As it turns out, I got all the way here. As I suspected, I did have to break out the “back-up clothing” because the other stuff hadn’t quite dried. I hope it’ll dry while I’m here in Bangor.

When I had asked the owner for a lift to Bangor, he indicated that the True Value Hardware Store in town did bicycle repairs/service. I stopped there on the way out of town on the off chance that they might be able to help me. The “bike guy” in the shop said, “Yup…it’s the tire. I don’t know if we have that size here. Let me check.” When he came back, he said, “Nope. We don’t have that size. The nearest service would be either Greenville or Bangor.” I said, “Well, I’m heading to Bangor. Do you think I’ll make it on that tire?” He actually seemed to think about it for a while and then replied, “Yup. The road’s pretty good between here and Bangor.” I thanked him and left, keeping my fingers crossed.

The ride, in general, was pretty good. The day started out really sunny, but eventually it became a grey, cooler day. Not much wind to speak of. Only a couple of stops for liquids. There were a couple of HUGE hills, especially at the beginning f the trip. There was a good bicycle path all the way along. There were a couple of scenes that I wish I had stopped and taken a picture of along the way. But, I was more concerned with keeping the momentum and kept going.

Without too much trouble, I found the Fireside Inn and Suites. I got a room for two nights. Tomorrow, early, I will take the bike to the nearest bike shop (maybe 2 miles away) to get a new tire for the back. Then, I’ll be good to go to start heading down toward Portland on Thursday.

Anyway…that’s the plan.

July 21, 2010 Paddy Murphy’s Pub, Bangor, Maine 19/912 3:30pm

Sort of a good news/bad news day.

The good news is that I got the back tire fixed on the bike. I had to cycle over to a place near the Bangor Mall called The Ski Rack. The bike shop was wonderful. The clerk seemed quite knowledgeable. He suggested his most durable tire and installed it. It seems that I had pretty much blown out the back tire. I guess I was lucky to have made it all the way here (and then to the Mall) on the tire. The replacement tire cost $40. The clerk didn’t want to charge me for labor (it took about 30 minutes), so I left him with a $5 tip. Everything seemed okie-dokie on the ride back to the hotel.

Of course, there was also some bad news involved as well. I tried to find the bike shop which as only two miles from the hotel. However, I found Cottage Street, but there was no 141 house there at all. Oh, well. Then I had to cycle another 5 miles out by the Bangor Mall where the other bicycle shops were. Oh, well.

The bad news is that it didn’t rain today. Even though all of the forecasts had predicted that it would. That was why I had taken two nights at the hotel. That is why I didn’t get the tire fixed yesterday. Anyway…that means that I’ll have to rethink a little bit about tomorrow. There are supposed to be possible showers in the afternoon, and it’s supposed to be WINDY. Well, that’ll pretty much determine how far I’ll get tomorrow. I was hoping to get all the way to BATH, but I don’t think that’s going to happen. Anyway…we’ll see.

After I returned from getting the tire fixed, I wandered about 1 ½ miles down into Downtown to meander around. Pretty good stuff. I stopped at a couple of bookshops. In one I bought one Spenser novel (which I probably read a thousand of years ago), and two Louis L’amour books (which I don’t think I’ve ever read), and one Zane Grey novel which I’m SURE I’ve never read. In the 2nd bookstore, I saw a couple of titles which would be good to include in my Ph.D. study. I can’t remember them right now. I probably should have written them down. One was by Rory Stewart (who wrote about his walk across Afghanistan), and the other was a book about following the five books of Moses across the Middle East. I’ll have to try to get them when I get to Mom’s. Anyway…

Oh, wait a minute. I stopped by the Hollywood Slots and Raceway on the way back to the hotel. (It’s right next door.) The place was PACKED!!! Of course, as you might imagine, I was the youngest person in there by maybe 10 years! The beer was a bit cheaper than in the hotel. I watched the end of the Red Sox game (from the West Coast). They lost (again). I also finished reading the Spenser book that I had bought downtown. It was called Ceremony although I STILL can’t figure out what that title has to do with the plot of the story. And, of course, at this point, I can’t ask Robert B. Parker.

Not much else happening…Just a day of relaxing and getting the bike back in tip-top shape before the dash down the coast.

July 22, 2010 Amore Restaurant, Belfast 58/970km 4:30pm

next to the Belfast Harbor Inn

Well, isn’t this unusual? I’ve been to Belfast, Northern Ireland, and now I’ve been to Belfast, Maine. Not too many similarities. Both pretty green. Other than that…

Not much happening last night. I had chicken fingers, vegetable beef soup, and the Pub Cheese Chicken Burger and a glass of red wine. All good stuff. All sat reasonably well.

Slept pretty well. The room was dark as a cave. I could hear the thunder as I was watching TV last night. I watched some baseball and also the movie Independence Day with Will Smith. Lights out at 11. Could still hear the rain and thunder.

Out the door this morning by about 8:30. One last look for accommodation in Belfast before I left. No worries. Today was supposed to be windy, but that never really appeared (at least not while I was on the road).

I’m not sure what I was expecting, but the road, for the most part was pretty good. I had expected the traffic flow to be similar to what it was outside the hotel. Nope. Pretty much a two-lane road with a bike lane. Not too much traffic, and not too many trucks. Good stuff overall. About 10 miles outside Belfast, 1A merged with US1 for the rest of the way. I’ll pretty much follow that all day tomorrow into Bath (that’s the target). Should be 50-60 miles.

I rode for a couple of miles alongside another long-distance cyclist. She seemed like a nice young lady. Originally from the West Coast, she was visiting some friends throughout the US and cycling around wherever they were. She was heading from Bar Harbor to Belfast today. She was going to be spending a couple of days around Belfast. After a couple of miles of riding next to her, I saw a big hill coming up, and wanted to get some good momentum going, so I sped off. Up at the top of that hill, I pulled over for some Gatorade. While I was drinking it, there was a brief rain shower, which I waited out for about 30 minutes.

On the way into Belfast, I pulled over at the Information Center to find out if there was any accommodation in the city of Belfast. I was told that the only accommodation in the city proper would cost me $300 or so. No thanks. My options outside the city were the Comfort Inn or the Belfast Harbor Inn. I chose the 2nd. I had seen it online, and, I believe, it is less expensive than the Comfort Inn. It is also about a mile closer to the town than the Comfort Inn (less travel tomorrow). Nice room. Continental breakfast tomorrow morning (starting at 7). I’ll need the fuel for the ride to Bath.

July 23, 2010 Black Barnacle Pub, Bath, Maine 109/1079km 5:00pm

WOOOOW!!! Really, really long day on the bike. Bath was certainly a little further than I had originally anticipated. I probably should have gone to Camden last night. But…that’s water under the bridge.

Before I forget, I meant to mention that there was a guy who came into the Amore Restaurant last night who had had an accident with a table saw very similar to Jim’s. Except it was this guy’s LEFT hand. He lost all of his index finger, and his middle finger might not come all the way back. Other than that, he was VERY lucky. (His words)

The chicken parmesan (notice a pattern here?) at the restaurant was quite good. A bit too much with the fettuccini, though. And I didn’t even touch the salad. I figured the pasta was more important for today.

Last night I watched most of the USA-Canada World Cup of Softball game. The US absolutely dominated. It was 4-0 before the end of the 2nd inning. Two home runs…absolutely CRUSHED. One by Jennie Finch. Too bad she’s retiring. She is just lovely and a helluva talent. Oh, well. I suppose the team will just “restock” (not rebuild).

Didn’t sleep especially well last night. Lots of tossing and turning. But, before I knew it, it was 6:45. I got off to a bit of a late start. On the road by 8:30. (Ultimately pulled into the Hampton Inn in Bath at about 4:30) The day was MUCH warmer than I had anticipated. Very few clouds during the day as well. And HILLS, HILLS, HILLS. That wasn’t the worst part. The WIND was. Pretty much dead into the wind all the way. There were so many times that I would be faced with a pretty good downhill before a pretty good uphill, and I just couldn’t carry as much momentum off the downhill as I would have liked because the wind picked up. Another day of having to peddle while going downhill (many times) in order not to lose speed. Pretty frustrating.

The bicycle lane, for the most part, was pretty good. However, the “frost heaves” were especially annoying. (“Fump-fump” about every ten yards or so for most of the trip) After about the first 20 miles, the “refreshment stops” presented themselves a bit more regularly. There was literally nothing for the first 20 miles. Pretty frustrating. I picked up two SNICKERS bars (2 for $1) at one of the early stops. They are now re-solidifying in the refrigerator in my hotel room. Maybe I’ll have them for desert when I get back to the room.

There seemed to be pretty much of a bottle-neck in Wicasset as I came through. I passed most of the traffic as I came down the hill and across the bridge into Wicasset “proper”. As I passed out the other end of town, the traffic was backed up the other way for quite a bit. I figured it’s a bunch of people heading out for the weekend somewhere on the coast. There seemed to be lots of campers, etc. Some of the “recreational vehicles” look like full-sized busses. AND, they’re pulling a trailer or a car behind them. Pretty amazing.

Occasionally, when the wind and the terrain seemed to be conspiring against me, I toyed with the idea of putting out my thumb in the hopes that someone with a pickup truck would pull over and I could put the bike (and me) in the back and get dropped off in Bath (or somewhere on the way). However, I’m glad I didn’t.

Tomorrow should be an easier day than today down to Portland to see Liz and Josh. (36 miles vs. 68 from today) I think it’s good that I’m arriving on a Saturday. That’ll give us ½ a day and then all day Sunday to visit. It’ll be great to see them. Off to Kenny’s on Monday.

When I arrived in Bath, I went directly to the Tourist Information Center to ask about directions to the Holiday Inn (which I had seen online yesterday). I asked the woman at the Tourist Center to call to ask about availability. Unfortunately, they had just sold their last room. (Bummer) Next on the list was the Hampton Inn. Fortunately, they had a room. It was a bit dear at $159 for the night. Oh, well. I didn’t care at that point. I just didn’t want to have to cycle much further. It turns out to be a BEAUTIFUL room. It’s such a pity that I’m not going to be in it very long.

It’s almost 7:30 now, and as I write this, I’ll finish my pint of Moosehead and head back over to the Kennebec Tavern which is much closer to the hotel for dinner. All that I could get here at the Black Barnacle are sandwiches in one form or another (Panini or wrap). I need something a bit more substantial. Anyway…that’s the plan.

I’m kind of disappointed that I’m not in Canada anymore and can’t readily watch CFL on TV. Bummer.

Dinner at J.W. Merrill’s. Onion soup, loaf of warm bread (good stuff), and chicken cordon bleu. I at only about ½ the chicken. I wasn’t crazy about the heavy sauce on top. Good stuff, though. Over to the Kennebec Tavern for a glass of red wine before heading back to the room.

July 24, 2010 Dry Dock Pub, Portland, Maine 56/1135km 6:00pm

Josh and Liz just left to go meet her aunt and uncle for dinner and then the show “Chicago” at the Maine Musical Theater. I’ve stayed here in the Old Port area of the city. Just to have a couple of beers and some dinner and then head back to their place. We’ve had a really nice visit. Chilling out on their balcony when I first arrived and then heading out to Portland Head Light (lighthouse) for a bit of a walkaround and then down here to the Old Port. Ill grab a bite to eat down here somewhere and then take a taxi back to their house and wait (or not) for them to come home. I might just turn in early. We’ll see.

Slept pretty well (go figure) last night. Up only once to pee. The first time I stirred this morning, it was 6:10. The next time I looked at my watch, it was 7:10. Up and at ‘em. I watched a bit of SportsCenter as I got ready.

I headed down to the front desk at about 8:10. I paid my bill and got what was left of my $50 deposit (after last night’s phone call to Liz). I headed outside to drink my last bottle of water before heading out. I thought I had left my red glasses in my room on the table in the room. I asked for my room key back so I could retrieve them. As soon as I entered the room and didn’t see them on the table, I felt on top of my head. DUH!!! So I wouldn’t look like a total fool, I swapped out the red glasses for the clear ones before I got down to the desk. Besides, since the day was pretty overcast, I would wear the clear ones on the ride. I still felt pretty stupid.

I walked the bike up all the hills in Bath to where I was able to pick up Route 1 which I would then follow all the way to Portland. It was about .6 of a mile. From there, the ride wasn’t too bad. I stopped twice for refreshment. I arrived at Liz and Josh’s at about 12:15. Not too bad time.

Unfortunately, I somehow missed the cross street where I had planned to cross over from Route 1 to Route 9 (the road on which they live). So, I wound up all the way into Portland, and had to backtrack a little (maybe a mile) up Route 9 to their house. No worries.

When we went over to Portland Head Light, the fog had begun to roll in a bit. There was also a couple getting married in the park. At least we think they were GOING to get married. The ceremony hadn’t actually started as we were leaving. The lighthouse was pretty impressive and OLD. The coast around the site was pretty rugged. It’s pretty obvious why a lighthouse was needed in that area.

July 25, 2010 Liz and Josh’s house, Portland 9:00 am

An absolute DELUGE last night. It just POURED. No wind. No thunder and lightning. Just rain and lots of it.

Great brunch. I had Eggs Benedict and a Bloody Mary. After brunch, while Josh went to his cousin’s birthday party, Liz and I went to watch about six innings of thee Portland Sea Dogs game. Great fun. Nice day. Sun popping in and out. The Sea Dogs were getting killed 6-0. I think it’s the Red Sox AA affiliate. None of the players looked all that great. Some good baseball, though. And, of course, the entertainment is pretty amusing between innings.

Overall great entertainment. Chicken, asparagus, and potato salad on the menu for dinner. Good stuff.

July 27, 2010 Ken Davis’ Cabin, Frye Island, Maine 45/1180km 9:00am

Sorry I didn’t touch base yesterday.

First of all, a big shout out to Liz and Josh for two enjoyable days in Portland. It was a wonderful time. Thanks, you two!!! Great stuff.

Yesterday, I left their house at about 8:30. Took Rte. 9 south to Rte. 302 West. Just stayed on there for the next 20 miles all the way up through Windham, North Windham, and up to Raymond, Maine. Turn off onto Raymond Neck Road and 5 miles later, I was pulling up at the Frye Island Ferry Landing. The terrain wasn’t too bad. Except the ride was pretty much into a steady wind all the way. When I head out on Wednesday, if I don’t have that wind behind me, I’ll be pretty pissed off.

Ken, Brenda, Chloe, and Olivia were all waiting on the other side of the ferry trip. It was about 11:30am. It was great to see all of them. (Oh, ya. Duke was also with them…Duke is a short-legged chocolate lab mix.)

The rest of the day was spent wandering around the island and viewing Ken’s beautiful (but slightly unfinished) house. It really is lovely. I’d include some pictures, but on the ferry ride over, my 2nd battery died. So, until I can get three CR3 batteries to put into the battery pack, I can’t take any more pictures or upload pictures to the blog. Sorry.

Yesterday afternoon, the wind really came up. We were going to go swimming at don’t brother’s house, but the waves were WAY too rough. Even Chloe, the swimmer didn’t want to go into the water. Later in the evening, we walked from Ken’s house to go down to the beach to watch the sunset. From the beach, we could even (barely) see the outline of Mount Washington. I thought it was a beautiful sunset, but apparently not “up there” on the Davis scale.

Grilled steak tips, corn on the cob, green beans, and fried potatoes for dinner. INCREDIBLE stuff. When Chloe came home from work, she tucked in to what was left like a lumberjack. Pretty impressive.

After dinner we looked at some pictures of the house-building and Chloe’s pictures from her recent (April) trip to China. Apparently, a couple of the students they visited with over there are now coming over here during this coming school year. A couple are staying with Ken and his family. Should be interesting.

As I write this, I’m sitting outside on Ken’s deck…not a cloud in the sky…slight breeze…waiting on Chloe’s pancakes. What a life!!!

The plan for tomorrow is to be on an early ferry and cycle back through Portland to Old Orchard Beach just for one night. Then, on Thursday, pick up the Downeaster to Boston. From there…we’ll see.

July 28, 2010 The Pier Pub, Old Orchard Beach 74/1254km 4:15pm

(770.5miles)

Another big shout out to my great friends Ken, Brenda, Chloe, and Olivia Davis. One and a half great relaxing days on Frye Island. In fact, the girls bought me a Frye Island t-shirt. Great stuff.

I was up early. Ken was as well and made for the two of us “homemade mcmuffins.” Outstanding. The girls were rousted out of bed to say good-bye. (I apologized to them for the early hour.) Ken, Duke, and I walked down to the ferry landing after breakfast. The ferry left the island at about 8:15, and by 8:30, I was on the other side and cycling for Old Orchard Beach. Oh, ya…by the way…there wasn’t the hint of a breeze on the island. Only once I hit the mainland. Go figure.

The total distance today was a little more than I had anticipated. I was figuring about 35 miles or so. Even though it was a bit longer, my overall time (about 4 hours) really wasn’t bad, considering.

The breeze that I had ridden into the whole way to Ken’s house had somehow managed to reverse itself and was today in my face the whole way. Obviously disappointing, but what’s to be done???

Instead of following Rte. 302 all the way into Portland and then picking up Rte. 9 to Orchard Beach, I decided to cut over Rte. 4 to Gorham and then pick up Rte. 114 to Scarborough, then Rte. 1 South and Rte. 98 into Old Orchard Beach. The terrain wasn’t bad, but the wind made a bit of tough going. Pretty gusty in places. I doubt it would have been any different if I had gone 302 all the way. Anyway…

Once I got into Old Orchard Beach, I cruised down the main drag looking for some of the Hotels/Motels I had seen online. I saw many of them, but most of them had NO vacancy. I found the Moby Dick Motel and Grocery Store. Fortunately, there was a room available, but it had to be cleaned. I was asked to come back in an hour. The General Store was absolutely CRAZY with sub and pizza orders and people just coming in for refreshments and snacks to take back to the beach, which was only about 75 yards from the place. I had seen this motel online while at Liz and Josh’s. It was one of the options.

I used the time to cycle back to the train station to check on the Downeaster for tomorrow. There’s a train to Boston at 8:15, and one at 1:05. The first one gets into North Station at about 10:30; the latter at 3:15.

Since the train station is not really a “train station” but the Chamber of Commerce, I was not able to actually BUY a ticket. I can call and make a reservation, and I will be given a reservation number and then I pay the conductor on the train. OR, I can try my credit card in the machine at the Chamber of Commerce to buy my ticket. OR I can try a reservation online. We’ll see what happens.

I’m guessing I’ll catch the 1:05 with the bicycle because it really doesn’t matter about timing tomorrow. From North Station, I’ll cycle over to Kenmore Square and try to get into the Hotel Buckminster for two nights. Then, on Friday, I’ll walk up to Dana Farber and visit with Mom and whoever drives her in during her appointment. On Saturday, I’ll cycle out of the city and down to Scituate (approx. 26-30 miles). I’m really looking forward to that.

When I got back to the Moby Dick’s, I spoke with the young lady who was cleaning the room. It turns out she’s from Kazakhstan. What a great coincidence! We chatted for a little while about my trip there and that there are a lot of Kazakh students at AUD, etc. She seemed genuinely excited by the conversation. It was nice. Her English was actually quite good…Much better than some of the Kazakh students at AUD. Go figure. Anyway…by about 2:00, I got into the room and was able to hang out my clothes and take a nice hot shower. (Usually the best part of the day)

When I had originally spoke to the people in charge, I was told the only room available had two “double beds.” In some places, this means two “twin beds.” In this case, it means, essentially, two QUEEN beds. Great stuff. One for me to sleep in. The other one for me to lay out all of my stuff to dry, etc. No worries.

I connected the computer once inside the room. Moby Dick’s has WiFi, but I didn’t have the access code. On the way out to walk downtown, I stopped in the shop and asked for the code. No worries. So, if I don’t find any pub or restaurant here that has WiFi access, once I get back to the room, I should be “hooked up” and can explore a couple of things like Train tickets and hotel rooms in Boston. We’ll see.

July 29, 2010 Hotel Buckminster, Kenmore Square, Boston 32/1286 4:30pm

Little bit of a crazy day today.

I slept reasonably well after a bit of a pub crawl last night. I was up early at about 5:20. I was planning on being on the 1:05 Downeaster to Boston. Unfortunately, there were a couple of problems. One: I was told that there were no bicycle slots available for the foreseeable future on any trains. Obviously that was a bit of a problem.

I was given the number of the Downeaster administration, and discussed the issue with the Customer Service person. I was informed that perhaps the Amtrak people misunderstood my question. I was informed that bicycles are only onloaded at Portland, Wells, and Boston. The only person who could approve loading a bicycle at Old Orchard Beach was the Train manager. So, I could simply sit at the station and wait and hope….OR I could get on the bike and head up to Portland (or down to Wells) where I could put the bike on the train. I opted for Portland…mostly because I felt I would have a bit of a tailwind (or at least not a headwind). It also seemed to be a bit closer. I wasn’t sure how far Wells was. I was told that I could take a bus to Portland. I was told that it comes by every 30 to 45 minutes.

I waited about 15 minutes and then decided that it was only 11 o’clock. I could certainly make it to Portland in time for the 2:15 train. I took off. In fact, I made it to the Portland Transportation Center in time for the 12:50 (the one that would be passing through Old Orchard at 1:05). I arrived at the Center at 12:30. The ticket (with the bike) was $29. Not too bad.

When it was explained to me why I couldn’t load the bike at Old Orchard Beach, the reason given was because the car that the bikes go on is at the front of the train and doesn’t line up with the platform when the train comes in to the station. When I borded the train at Portland with the bike, I was told to put it at the front of the car in the space that is usually reserved for Disabled passengers. AND…AND…later in the trip, another cyclist boarded with his bike at a station that was NOT Portland, Wells, or Boston. He put his bike in the handicapped space on the other side of the aisle. Pretty frustrating. Oh, well.

I had surfed last night and this morning trying to find a hotel near Kenmore Square with no positive results. When I arrived at North Station, I headed for Kenmore Square just hoping that something might have changed. Luckily…it had. The Hotel Buckminster had an Economy Room (or a Palace Room) for $115 for the night. SOLD!!! It was about 4 miles from North Station to Kenmore Square (at least the way I rode). I rode around the Common and then up Beacon Street all the way to Kenmore.

I’ll call Wendy when I get back to the room after dinner. I had an e-mail from Bill, and I asked him how to get to where Mom will be in Dana Farber tomorrow. We’ll see. He’s going to be at the Sox game tomorrow night.

So…one more day to ride for a while…down to Scituate. I’m really looking forward to it. If I stay around here, I’ll take the Jamaica Way. We’ll see. Mom may insist that I come down to Scituate tomorrow with her and whoever takes her in. We’ll see.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Bearing down on Bangor

















Images: (clockwise from left)...

There are lakes everywhere in this freakin' state; one of the enormous hills on the way between the Canadian border and Bangor; the Pleasant Street Inn in Greenville (a lovely B&B); a view from the dock at the Black Frog in Greenville. I guess the sign has much more significance in the winter.; the Brown Moose Motel in Jackman where I rested after crossing the Canadian border and waiting out the rain at the border crossing.





July 15, 2010 Invitation Inn Motel, Ste. Marie 58/628km 4:30 pm

Little shorter day than I would have liked. I got off to a bit of a late start (almost 9). The route was pretty clear. I had ridden 6 miles before I even got to the turnoff for Rte. 175 South. The terrain, for the most part, was pretty rolling with some rather large hills. Not too bad overall. Once it was clear that I wasn’t going to make it all the way to Ste. Georges, I set my sites on Ste. Marie.

Tomorrow’s forecast is for showers and wind and possible thunderstorms. What I might wind up doing is jumping in a big taxi and head down to Ste. Georges. From there, I’ll head over the border to Jackman, ME. Anyway…that’s the plan. I’ll see what happens when I wake up.

That also might give me the chance to update the blog, which I haven’t done in a little while. I’ve got some nice pictures from Quebec City to add as well.

July 17, 2010 Northland Hotel, Jackman, ME 70/698km 4:00 pm

Okay, Okay, Okay. I missed yesterday. There really wasn’t much to report. I did, in fact, take a big taxi over to St. Georges and got a room at the Comfort Inn at the far end of town. It was a lovely place. While we drove over, we drove through occasional wind and heavy, heavy wind. I was glad that I had decided not to ride. It would have been amazingly annoying.

Anyway…most of the day was spent reading and occasionally napping. I actually ate lunch for one of the first times on the trip. I had a chicken burger with fries. Pretty good stuff. For dinner, I had the restaurant’s version of “chicken parmesan.” Pretty good stuff. Carrots and rice pilaf and Caesar salad and chicken noodle soup. It tasted wonderful. Didn’t sit particularly well. Oh, well. After dinner, I just went back to the room and did a little searching for accommodation for today and watched the CFL game between Hamilton and Winnipeg. Hamilton won pretty easily after knocking out the starting quarterback for Winnipeg.

I didn’t sleep particularly well, but since I had turned out the light at 10:30, I had plenty of opportunity. I only got up once to go to the bathroom. The rest of the time, I slept well in between tossing and turning.

Today, I was on the road by about 8:15. It was breezy, but mostly a “cross wind.” The terrain was not rolling, but HILLY. There were some HUGE hills. Overall, a pretty tough day. But, I got it done. Once I left St. Georges, there was virtually not a single store at which to stop and get a Gatorade or PowerAde or even water. The first opportunity I had was at the border crossing, about 28 miles into the trip. There, all that was available was at the Duty Free Shop. I got two Cokes and three small waters. I stopped for about 45 minutes before heading through the border crossing.

The officer at the crossing asked me the following questions:

HIM: Why are you on a bicycle?

ME: Because I’m crazy.

HIM: What do you do for work?

ME: I teach at The American University in Dubai.

HIM: Well, that would explain all the travel stamps in the passport.

ME: Sir, it looks like it’s going to rain pretty much any minute. Is there any room or anywhere I could sit or stand and wait out the rain?

HIM: Sure. Just pull into Bay #3 up by that table. I’ll tell my boss what you’re doing there.

Under the shelter of the bay, I sat and waited. It took only about 10 minutes before a steady drizzle began. That increased to a downpour within minutes. Of course, the wind was blowing, and I still got a little damp. But not nearly what would have happened if I had tried to cycle through it. Once it finished, I stayed dry through the whole rest of the whole rest of the trip. I was a little nervous when I finally pulled into Jackman that the rain was going to start soon, so I really cycled pretty hard for the last 5 or so miles.

Overall, there wasn’t too much traffic on the road today. As I got closer to Jackman, there were actually houses along the road. That was nice in case I had to ditch in case of rain. Fortunately, I didn’t have to.

I found the Brown Moose Motel (where I had made a reservation and had a confirmation last night) without too much trouble. It is literally RIGHT next door to Bishop’s Motel, which really had been my first choice (because I had read about it in the Rough Guide. But, I didn’t hear back from them last night. The Brown Moose is smack in the middle of town.

The room is beautiful. TWO big queen beds. TV, free internet access, good water pressure in the shower, AC. Good stuff. It was interesting to turn on the TV and find that all the channels were in English. But, DUH!!! Anyway…it was a nice treat. However, when I tried to find the Red Sox game, I couldn’t. Maybe they play tonight. I figured that since it was Saturday, they would be playing an afternoon game. I guess not.

I’ve pretty much decided that I’ll be taking the Downeaster from Portland to Boston after spending a little time with Liz and Josh, and Kenny and his family. I think I need to go see Mom. I still want to cycle from Boston to Scituate, though. I’ll try to stay at the Buckminster in Kenmore Square, so I can walk up to Dana Farber to see Mom if she comes in for treatment. I’ll only stay one night. It depends on what time I get into North Station on the Downeaster. Anyway...that’s the plan.

I’m supposed to head to Greenville tomorrow. We’ll see how that goes. According to the map. It’s about 50 miles. I hope to get an early start.

As I’m sitting in my room at the hotel (Brown Moose Motel), it’s POURING outside along with a bit of thunder and lightning. On the TV earlier, I saw that there would be an “event” tonight but that tomorrow would be nice. Here’s hoping.

July 18, 2010 The Black Frog, Greenville 80/778km 3:30pm

Pretty good overall day on the bike. I made it the 50 miles to Greenville in just about 4 hours (that’s minus the break that I took in Rockwood for a Gatorade and water). A couple of severe hills, but for the most part, pretty manageable terrain.

I slept pretty much like shit last night. My left knee was acting up a bit. I couldn’t tell if it was structural damage or whether it was my gout had kicked up. Since the knee didn’t bother me while on the bike today, I figure it’s the gout. I took some pills in the middle of the night (which have been prescribed) and it’s okie-dokie today. Anyway…

Up and out by 8. Watched a little bit of the (British) Open Championships. Tiger and Phil were pretty much out of it, but were trying to do whatever they could anyway… I went outside before I left to take a picture of the motel and “Mother Bear’s Restaurant” across the street (where I ate dinner last night). Good stuff. The wind was up and there were a few dark clouds in the sky. But, I figured if I can get the 50 mile ride in today before any weather moved in, I could do the 30 mile ride early tomorrow even if the weather moved in. Anyway…that was the thinking.

Oh, ya. Before I forget…on the ride today, I saw a little red fox on the side of the road as I was cycling by. Apparently, I scared the shit out of the fox because he looked at me and ran in the opposite direction as fast as it could. I was also looking for moose all along the way, especially as I was going really fast coming down hills or on straight-aways with momentum. If one came out of the woods and stood in my way, I was pretty much screwed. I would lose that collision. Fortunately (?) I didn’t see any.

For the most part, today the tarmac was pretty good, but coming out of Rockwood, for about 5 miles, the road was in really shitty condition. I had to be really careful about the cracks in the road. Because of how thin the tires are on the bike, any big crack heading in the same direction can grab the tire and create a real problem. So, needless to say, they are best avoided.

Here in Greenville, there are some great t-shirts and sweatshirts that I would love to purchase, but won’t because of the extra load on the bike. I really wish I could. Up in this area, they really play us the whole “moose” thing. Pretty funny.

I have taken a somewhat expensive room at the Pleasant Street Inn, which is a BEAUTIFUL old home. The people seemed very glad to see me because they have no other guests for tonight. Of course, the room includes breakfast tomorrow morning. I’m really looking forward to that. It seems that the only times on this bicycle trip that I eat breakfast are when I stay at really nice B & B’s (like Le Capucine in St. Placides). Anyway…tomorrow’s ride to Dover-Foxcroft should be pretty easy. It’s only 30 miles or so. Certainly easier than today. We’ll see.

July 19, 2010 Bear’s Den Restaurant, Tavern, 55/833 5:45pm

and Motel, Dover-Foxcroft, Maine

Not quite as easy a day as I had imagined. There were essentially three (3) reasons for that:

1) There was so much shitty road surface. There was about 3km of new tarmac, and that was wonderful to cycle on. However, much of the rest was HORRIBLE. I had to be constantly on the alert for huge cracks that might grab my front wheel and send me head-over-heels off the bike.

2) There were some ENORMOUS hills, especially in the first 1/3 of the trip. Obviously, these took quite a bit of time getting up and over.

3) There was about a one hour “rain delay” in Abbot Village. It had just started raining when I pulled into the General Store for some Gatorade. By the time I came out, it was raining pretty good. I just sat down on the porch and waited until it had reduced pretty much to a drizzle. Since Dover-Foxcroft was only 12 more miles, I figured I could stand getting a little wet. The ride from there wasn’t really too bad.

I found the Bear’s Den Tavern, Restaurant, and Motel which I had located on the web last night. It’s a really lovely place. All self-contained. That means that I can sleep here as well as eat here as well as get a beer (or two) here. I got into the room right away when I arrived (about 1:30). Unfortunately, I don’t think my stuff will be dry before tomorrow. That means I’ll have to wear the back-up stuff. (Good thing I’ve kept it.). I should be able to dry everything in Bangor.

Today, I discovered a little bump in the back tire. I’m a little concerned, but it didn’t seem to create a problem (other than the thump, thump as I was going along). I have to decide in the morning whether to chance it on the 38 miles to Bangor or to take a taxi to Bangor and locate a bike shop to fix it. Either way, it’ll get fixed in Bangor. I don’t know if it’s something in the TUBE, or something on the actual TIRE. It’s not rubbing against the brakes or anything, so I might just take the chance tomorrow to Bangor. Let’s all keep our fingers crossed.

I’ve been in touch with Elizabeth Greason and Ken Davis about when I might come into Portland and Sebago. It shouldn’t be too long. By then I should be well over 1,000 km. Another monster trip.

In Greenville, I finished reading A Thousand Splendid Suns, which was the last book that I had with me. So, in the Northland Outfitters store, I bought a John Sanford novel and a Jonathan Kellerman book. I hope to pick up some more meaningful reading when I get to Bangor, or Portland, or Boston.

So, that’s where I am right now.


Friday, July 16, 2010

Quitting Quebec







Pictures: One of the soldiers outside the citadel (still a working military base); the view out my hotel window in Quebec City; some of the colorful buildings in the Lower Old Town; the view of the Hotel Frontenac.

July 12, 2010 St. Patrick’s Pub, Quebec City 65.3/570km 5:25pm

OK. I think I’ve figured it out. The bike computer is set for MILES instead of kilometers. I saw a sign this morning that said “Trois Rivieres 80km.” that sign was 9km into my ride. Therefore, I rode 71 kilometers yesterday. If I multiply the 48km that I rode yesterday by 1.6 (conversion from miles to kilometers), I come out with 76.8. Just about right. Also, my total trip from Montreal to Quebec City has totaled 176. It is generally accepted that the distance from Montreal to Quebec City is about 250+ kilometers. If I multiply 176 x 1.6, I come out with about 280. That would be about right considering some of the side trips I’ve taken (following the bike route off the main road (but then rejoining it). So, those are the numbers I’ve included at the top of today’s entry. It also directly impacts the speed I thought Id been traveling. Normally, when I look down at my computer on the flats, my speed is inevitably between 15 – 16. That’s MILES PER HOUR. Translated to kilometers, that’s 24 – 25.6 kilometers per hour. Not too bad. I had been thinking that I was just really slow. But I was passing a TON of people yesterday (when I was riding amid the Ride to Conquer Cancer people). Oh, well. All part of the adventure.

I’ve heard a couple of times from the Editor of Esquire: Middle East while on the trip. He really liked the piece I submitted, but he’s had to cut it down. I always like to give editors a lot of stuff to work with and let them shape it as they wish. Anyway…he will be sending me a final mock-up for my approval. When he does, I’ll send it along to everyone. It’s pretty exciting. I’m hoping that this might lead to more work with them (or even with other magazines in the region. Let’s all keep our fingers crossed.

Today was a pretty brutal ride. There was the HEAT, but also some REALLY big hills. Just put the bike in the lowest gear and hunker down to pedal like hell. In addition, as I was coming out of Donnacone, for some reason, the computer went from displaying all of the totals from Montreal to beginning at “0” on all counts (time cycled, total distance, etc.). Pretty frustrating. But, there still was an overall counter somewhere, and I managed to retrieve it. That’s where I got the 176 number that I discussed earlier.

Quebec City certainly is a LOOONG city. Once I hit the city outskirts, it was almost another 45 minutes to an hour before I actually arrived in the Old Town. For good measure, there were a couple of detours thrown in along the way. It’s all good, though.

I’ve spoiled myself a little bit by getting a room at the Hotel Clarendon, the oldest hotel in the Vieux Carre (the Old Town). It’s REALLY nice. I’ve noticed that a number of hotels that I’ve stayed in have terrycloth bathrobes in the closet for the guests to use (which can also be purchased upon departure (new ones). Pretty cool. AND, the room that I have for tonight (moving to a little cheaper room tomorrow) has a jacuzzi int eh bathroom. Sooooo cool. Anyway…I’ll be here in Quebec City tonight and tomorrow night before heading out towards the good ol’ US of A on Wednesday. I passed Route 175 Sud (south) on the way into Quebec City, so I just need to retrace those tracks, and I’ll be heading toward Maine. I might even stay one more night here in Quebec City because I’ve looked at some of my itinerary for the coast of Maine and I’ve found that I have a couple of pretty short legs. If I need to pick up any time at any point, I can do it there. I’m just saying.

While on my way walking from the hotel over here to St. Patrick’s Pub, I passed a bookstore and picked up The Girl Who Played With Fire because I should be finished with Monsieur Quixote by tomorrow. I really enjoyed the first one in the series, so I’m hoping this one keeps pace. We’ll see. I obviously don’t want to carry more than one book with me at a time. When I get to Bangor, I’ll try to pick up a Rough Guide or Lonely Planet for New England. I forgot both of those books in Dubai, but it’s probably just as well because of the weight they would have added. Once I get into the US, I can ditch the Lonely Planet for Montreal and Quebec City even though it has served me well. Any weight jettisoned it good. I left a pair of gloves and a pair of socks behind in Three Rivers, as well as my boxers (still damp after being washed the night before) and my white ankle-high socks that I’d worn for the whole trip. I still have two more pairs of black ankle-high NIKE socks and one extra pair of gloves (although they’re a little tough to pull on…don’t have the Velcro strap at the wrist). Right now, my tan on both arms extends to just about mid-bicep to just above my wrist. Pretty weird.

Oh, ya. Before I forget, it seems as though I’ve arrived in Quebec City just in the middle of a HUGE music festival. The festival runs from the 8th to the 18th of July. Among the musical performers are

The Black Eyed Peas

Steve Winwood

Santana

Iron Maiden

Rush

Jimmy Cliff

Allen Toussaint (those from New Orleans will recognize this name)

I’m sure there are a bunch of popular Canadian popular acts who are also listed, but I have absolutely NO idea who they are.

Apparently, Steve Winwood and Santana are both playing tomorrow night (the 13th). The venue is a place called “The Planes of Abraham.” Weird. Unfortunately, both shows are sold out. No tickets. Oh, well. Not sure if I would have gone anyway. The older I get, the more I just really HATE crowds (for the most part).

I’m a little worried about my new, expensive camera lens. It seems as though it got a little wet during the downpour in Bertheirville and now has a little trouble with the “autofocus.” I’m hoping to find a camera shop here in Quebec City tomorrow to check out the problem. It’s the only lens that I brought with me. If it’s not working properly, I’m SOL. That would really suck. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.

July 13, 2010 Hotel Clarendon, Quebec City 2:30 pm

Well, it’s been a pretty busy day so far. I changed my room first thing this morning. My new room doesn’t have a Jacuzzi in the bathroom. Oh, well. It has a bathtub, though. I’ll think about that later. I got all the stuff laid out to dry before I head out tomorrow. Apparently, David Ortiz won the Home Run Derby yesterday (last night). Not too bad for someone who was supposed to be “washed up.” I had to pay for tonight’s room in cash (US $$) because there’s a problem with my VISA card. I’ll have to try to call Dubai and get it straightened out. I don’t know what’s the problem.

Then I went out and wandered about the Old Town of Quebec City. Some pretty good stuff. I went inside the Basilica of Notre Dame. Pretty impressive. Unusual casket top for Francois de Laval, a missionary who apparently founded the church in New France. The altar was pretty much all in gold, but it was impressive.

I walked out through one of the old city gates and into the city just outside the walls. Apparently, there is someone doing a “tribute” show to Johnny Cash. I’ll bet THAT’s interesting. I know that here in Canada, country music is very popular. Not that that’s a BAD thing.

From there, I walked by one of the concert venues for the festival tonight. It looked as though it could hold quite a crowd. I have to keep remembering that Quebec City is pretty small as far as “cities” go. If there are multiple concerts going on at the same time, I don’t know if any of them will be that crowded. I’m not sure, but I’m not going to find out because I’ll try to be in bed early tonight. I hope to get an early start tomorrow. I’m hoping to get all the way to St. Georges. I’m not really sure how far that is because the kilometer readings on the map aren’t especially clear. Also, I don’t know what kind of terrain it’s going to be. I suppose if it takes me two days to get to Jackman, either way, it’s two days. Between Jackman and Bangor, it looks to be pretty hilly. Along the coast it shouldn’t be too bad. The area around Bill’s house will be a bit tough, though. Like always…we’ll see.

Then I wandered up to The Citadel. Since it’s a working military base, no one is allowed to wander around alone. You either go with a big group tour or you pay for an individual guide. Apparently, the 22nd Regiment (the occupants) are the baddest MF’s in the whole of the Canadian Army. Anyway…the tour was pretty good. I think I got some pretty good pictures of the city below as well as some of the structures of the fortress. Just at the very end, as we were all walking along the ramparts, it began to rain…not pour…but a steady drizzle. By the time I had gotten out the other side of the building, it had stopped. It’s just been grey and damp since then. I guess I won’t be needing my sunglasses anymore today.

I’ve just uploaded all of my pictures from my camera onto the computer and looked at them. Not too bad. Even though through the viewfinder it doesn’t look as though the lens is focusing, none of the pictures are out of focus. The lighting for most of the pictures today wasn’t great, but at least they were in focus. Oh, well. I’ll just keep my fingers crossed. I’ll include a few more pictures in the blog when I update it later today/tonight before heading out toward the US of A tomorrow.

Didn’t sleep so great last night. Second night in a row that I had some pretty weird dreams. Also, the air conditioning was a bit sporadic. One minute I woke up and I was freezing; the next minute I woke up roasting because the AC had cut out. Oh, well. When I first woke up, I watched a little bit of Robert Downey Jr. on Inside the Actor’s Studio. Pretty interesting stuff. He’s a brilliant talent who’s made a great comeback from near disaster. Well, I guess it pretty much WAS a disaster. But he’s made it back. I watched a bit of Sherlock Holmes on the flight from France to Montreal. Not a wonderful movie, but it’s hard to look away any time Robert Downey is on the screen. (And of course, I ALWAYS appreciate Rachel McAdams.)

July 14, 2010 St. Patrick’s Pub, Quebec City 2:30pm

For whatever reason, I just didn’t get on the bike this morning. I just wanted to stay here in Quebec for one more day before I begin my adventure southward toward Boston.

I spoke with Mom last night on the phone. She sounded a bit tired. I guess that’s to be expected with all the treatments, etc. She expressed concern and suggested that I just jump on a plane and head home. I told her that I needed to put many more miles on the bike and that I really wanted to see Kenny and Liz Greason and see Lisa and Mike’s house in Wells. We’ll see how things develop.

Watched a bit of the All-Star game last night. It turns out that I saw all of the scoring before I fell off to sleep. According to the reports, it was the lowest scoring All-Star game since 1997. It was also the first time that the National League won since 1996. Quite a stretch.

I spent most of this morning wandering around the Lower Old Town of Quebec City. It’s really a lovely little place. Lots and lots of tourist shops, but I pretty much ignored those. As with all of the Old Town, lots of little streets and alleys. I also wandered down to the port. Not much going on there. It has turned out to be a wonderfully sunny day. I’ve taken a few more pictures to round out my collection of Quebec City.

I’ve just finished The Girl Who Played With Fire. Quite a book. I’m going to try to find a copy of The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest, which is the 3rd and final part of the trilogy. I know there’s a bookstore that has a hardback copy of it, but I’m not sure I want to carry that on the bike. We’ll see. Maybe I’ll have to wait until I get to Bangor. I tried to buy a David Balducci book last evening, but the bookshop wouldn’t take a US$100 bill. Oh, well. Maybe I’ll go back there.

Definitely getting on the bike tomorrow and hoping to get all the way to Saint Georges. It should be about 80km. I’ve already done close to that a couple of times on this trip. If I get an early start, I should be able to make it.

Oh, ya. On the way between the Lower Old Town and here, I bought a new pair of underpants. It’s been a while since I’ve had any. I think I left the last pair in Three Rivers. Thank goodness. I still have a couple of pairs of socks and one additional pair of gloves.

July 15, 2010 Invitation Inn Motel, Ste. Marie 58/628km 4:30 pm

Little shorter day than I would have liked. I got off to a bit of a late start (almost 9). The route was pretty clear. I had ridden 6 miles before I even got to the turnoff for Rte. 175 South. The terrain, for the most part, was pretty rolling with some rather large hills. Not too bad overall. Once it was clear that I wasn’t going to make it all the way to Ste. Georges, I set my sites on Ste. Marie.

Tomorrow’s forecast is for showers and wind and possible thunderstorms. What I might wind up doing is jumping in a big taxi and head down to Ste. Georges. From there, I’ll head over the border to Jackman, ME. Anyway…that’s the plan. I’ll see what happens when I wake up.

That also might give me the chance to update the blog, which I haven’t done in a little while. I’ve got some nice pictures from Quebec City to add as well.